Practical Moscow

Plotting the Perfect Visa Run

PASSPORT’s exclusive survey of 15 top visa destinations.

It’s visa time! As all expats know, if you come to Russia on a oneyear, multi-entry visa, once a year you need to apply for a new visa, leave the country, pick up your new visa, and cross the border back into Russia with it. Having it stamped at the border both validates the visa and registers your arrival in the country. The good news is: most foreigners can get a visa in any Russian consulate anywhere in the world, so it’s a great excuse to get away for a few days and explore some of the neighboring countries you might not have had the chance to visit yet. The bad news is: if you don’t plan ahead, you might end up spending hundreds of dollars on air tickets and hotels and dozens of hours standing in line instead of seeing the sights and supporting the local economy with a welldeserved shopping binge.

To make your life easier, PASSPORT has done the dog work for you. With the help of four seasoned visa and travel experts, we’ve come up with a list of fifteen of the most popular visa runs, rated according to travel and accommodation options, convenience, consular services, price and getaway perks. And if you’re looking for somewhere a little more exotic or further afield, we’ve got you covered there, too.

Once you’ve narrowed your choices and decided on where you want to go to get your next visa, contact a few tourist agencies to see if they have a package that includes hotel and airfare. Some packages even include the cost of the invitation and visa, and the agency’s representative will meet you on arrival and take care of the paperwork so you can spend your time taking in the sites.

The cost of the visa itself depends on a number of factors, including your nationality, local consular fees, the type of visa you’re applying for, and how long you’re willing to wait for it to be processed. (Bear in mind that one-day processing can be up to four times as expensive as standard service, so you’ll want to consider your budget as well as the amount of time you have to spend waiting around.) We’ve listed prices for American citizens getting a one-year, multi-entry business visa; folks of different nationalities getting different types of visas should call the consulates ahead of time to find out exact prices and conditions.

Hint: Foreigners sponsored by their employer in Russia may be eligible for a work visa, which means you don’t actually have to leave the country to get a new visa. Ask your visa agency or human resources director about this splendid little loophole. It can save you a substantial amount of time and money…but then you’ll have to come up with some other clever excuse to sneak off in the middle of the week to go shopping at Harrods or have your picture taken at the base of the Eiffel Tower.

First Things First

Before you start the process, you need an invitation from an organization (governmental, non-governmental or commercial) that has the right to invite foreigners. Rules have changed in the last year, so be sure to check well ahead of time whether the organization that invited you last year can still issue an invitation this year. It generally takes at least three weeks to process the invitation. You have to let the organization know in advance where you’ll be picking up the visa, so decide on your location before you request an invitation. And double check that they’ve got it right; you don’t want to be in New York when your visa confirmation is in Washington, D.C. You’ll get an original invitation or, if you’re trying to save time, a telex invitation before you leave. The telex invitation refers to the authorization sent by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs to the consulate in the form of a “telex number.”

Wherever you’re going to pick up your visa, you’ll need to bring with you the invitation, two photos, your passport and a photocopy of your passport, proof that you have medical insurance, and a negative HIV/AIDS test (which some consulates don’t request, but which you should have just in case). You also have to fill out an application form, which you will get at the consulate. Make sure you know the exact name and address of the organization inviting you, since you’ll need this when filling out the application.

When making your travel plans, keep in mind that the consulate may be closed for both Russian and national holidays. Check the internet or call the local embassy to find out the national holidays, and then call the consulates to see if they are open or closed. Russian public holidays include Jan 1, Jan 7, Feb 23, Mar 8, May 1, May 9, June 12, Nov 7 and Dec 12.

So you’re ready to go. Follow the tips below for individual cities and you’re sure to spend your day or week away from Moscow having a good time – and not worrying about whether or not you’ll get your Russian visa. And if you like your destination – be it Helsinki or Prague or Nicosia – you’ll have the opportunity to return a half a year later. The latest visa rule states that foreigners have to exit the country every six months – even if they’re not on a visa run!

Helsinki Consulate Info Tehtaankatu, 1 B Tel. 8-10 (358-2) 233- 6441 Open weekdays except Wed., 9am-noon; visa pick-up 2pm-4:30pm. Visa cost: 230 euro (three business days); 295 euro (same day) If You Go 1-hour time difference 1.5-hour flight Flight: economy $345/ business $868 12.5-hour overnight train Train: second $175/first $236 Hotel: 3-star $195/5-star $450 Plus A short flight or train trip (clean trains and good service). Visas are ready in maximum three business days. The consulate is a 15-minute walk from the railway station along the sea coast, one of the most delightful parts of town. Minus The train arrives at 11:15, so if it’s a little late, you won’t be able to get to the consulate before they close. The consulate is now regularly checking HIV/AIDS tests, although insurance is rarely checked. Tip Arrive at the consulate with everything ready but the application, which you can fill out standing in line.	Madrid Consulate Info C. Joaquin Costa 33. Tel. 8-10 (34-91) 564-20-49; 411-29-57 Open Mon, Tues, Fri 11am–1pm Visa cost: 100 euros (7-10 days), 112 euros (3-6 days), 125 euros (2 days), 250 euros (24 hours) If You Go  2-hour time difference 5-hour flight Flight: economy $505/business $1305 (Lufthansa flies indirect.) Hotel: 3-star $145/5-star $350 Plus You can visit the world-famous Prado Museum while your visa is being processed. Minus Madrid has become more expensive since Spain’s transition to the euro. Tip  Eat at the oldest continuously operating restaurant in the world, the Cafe Botin. If you’re a seafood lover, Madrid is actually a better choice than many of the coastal towns and cities, as the best seafood manages to find its way to the capital.
London Consulate Info  5 Kensington Palace Gardens Tel. 8-10 (44-207) 229-80-27; 792-84-73 www.great-britain.mid.ru Mon-Fri 9am-11:30am Visa cost: 100 pounds (three business days), 130 pounds (next day), 150 pounds (same day) If You Go 3-hour time difference 4-hour flight Flight: economy $325/business $2,150 Hotel: 3-star $162/5-star $370  Plus Consulate located right in the center of London. Minus  It’s the only consulate that requires a confirmation document (“spravka”) from your employer. There are very long lines, especially from May to August; some people show up as early as 5am to be sure they make it in the door. Tips To avoid standing in the long line, you can pay 35- 60 pounds to an agency located near the consulate and pick up your visa the same day. Make sure you have English currency, since that’s all they accept.	Milan Consulate Info Via Sant’Aquilino, 3 Tel. 8-10 (39-02) 487-060-41, 400-921-13, 487-059-12, 487-073-01 Weekdays except Wed., 9am-12am Visa cost: $125 (same day) If You Go 2-hour time difference 4-hour flight Flight: economy $480/business $1,100 Hotel: 3-star $150/5-star $500 Plus Cheap, hassle-free visa. They rarely check your AIDS test. No line, visa pick-up the same day, sometimes in as little as 30 minutes. Minus The consulate is located in a residential neighborhood outside the city center, so you’ll need to allow 45 minutes to get there by metro, a little less if by taxi. Tips October is “mark-down month” when all stores have their autumn sales, so if you time it right, you can pick up designer threads for a fraction of what you’d pay for them in Moscow. Some tour operators offer “shopping tours,” which include the cost of travel, hotel and transportation to the designer outlets.
Paris Consulate Info  14-50 Blvd. Lannes Tel. 8-10 (331) 45- 04-05-01, 45-03- 23-12 Mon-Fri 9am– noon; visa pick-up 9am– noon, 3pm-6pm Visa cost: 153 euro (seven days), an extra 61 euros to get the visa the same day If You Go 2-hour time difference 4-hour flight Flight: economy $405/business $1,650. Hotel: 3-star $130/5-star $480 Plus It’s Paris. Need we say more? Minus According to those in the know, the most unfriendly consulate staff on the planet. Tip Use an agency near the consulate and save yourself the headaches.	San Francisco Consulate Info  2790 Green Street Tel. 8-10 (1-415) 928-68-78, 202-98-02 www.consulrussia.org Mon-Fri 9:30am-12:30pm, 2pm-5pm, 2pm-4pm (Fri) Visa cost: $100 (6-10 business days), $300 (3-5 business days), $350 (next business day), $450 (same day) If You Go Time difference: 12 hours 14-hour flight, plus layovers (No direct flights.) Flight: economy $960/business $3,100 Hotel: 3-star $150/5-star $300. Plus The consulate is less crowded than in NYC and the staff is friendlier. They may or may not check your AIDS test. Minus Expensive visa if you need it done quickly. TIP Tourist heaven, if you like Chinese food and upscale shopping. Check out Gump’s for home furnishings.
New York Consulate Info  9 East 91st Street Tel. 8-10 (1-212) 348- 09-26, 348-09-55, 348-57-62, 348-26- 26 www.ruscon.org Mon-Fri 9:30am- 12:30pm, 2pm-5pm; Fri 2pm-4pm Visa cost: $100 (6-10 business days), $300 (3-5 business days), $350 (next business day), $450 (same day) If You Go 8-hour time difference 10-hour flight Flight: economy $650/business $2,525 Hotel: 3-star $150/5- star $300 Plus The largest Russian consulate, situated on the Upper East Side of Manhattan. Take a walk in Central Park, visit the Metropolitan Museum of Art or the Guggenheim while your visa is being processed.  Minus Visas are quite expensive if you need them quickly. The consulate is often crowded. Tip You can order your visa by mail and choose to either receive it by mail or pick it up yourself. You’ll have to pay $25 for FedEx (one way) and document processing. Triple-check that your MID confirmation is sent to NYC and not Washington; if it’s wrong, you have to reroute the telex from Moscow. It’s not recommended to use the mail if you’ve got a flight to Moscow and you’re on a deadline.	Riga Consulate Info ul. Lachplesha, 13 Tel. 8-10 (371) 721-01-23; 721-25-79 Mon-Fri 10am-2:30pm Cost: $220 (10 business days), $420 (next day) If You Go 1-hour time difference 15.5-hour overnight train Train: second $138/ first $240 1-hour and 45-minute flight Flight: economy $199/business $490 Hotel: 3-star $95/5-star $185 Plus The service is friendly and competent. Perhaps the most pleasant and hassle-free place to get a visa. The beautiful Old Town is easy to explore on foot. Minus No sameday service. Tip  Listen to the ancient organ in the Dome Cathedral and have a delicious meal at Vincent’s restaurant.
Talinn Consulate Info Lai, 18 Tel. 8-10 (372) 646- 41-31, 646-41-66 Mon-Fri 10am- 2:30pm Visa cost: $328 (ten days), $480 (5 days), $635 (3 days), no same day If You Go 1-hour time difference 1-hour, 40-minute flight Flight: economy $228/business $485 Train: 15-hour overnight train Train: second $106/first $210 Hotel: 3-star $132/5-star $240 Plus An easy trip by train. The train arrives at 10am, so it’s perfect for submitting your visa papers the day you arrive. The consulate is in the Old Town, minutes from the train station, hotels and main sights. Minus Expensive, much more so than a couple years ago. At the time of writing, same-day visa processing was suspended and the consulate told us this may be permanent. It’s a small consulate often packed with Russians with various passport, visa and registration problems. Make sure to ask which window handles visas for foreigners. The train stops on the border for two hours in the middle of the night for passport control and customs check, so you arrive bleary-eyed the next morning. Tip If you organize your visa invitation through an agency, they’ll often arrange for you to be met at the train station by an agent who can handle the processing while you see the sites. Beautiful medieval city with excellent shopping: amber jewelry, woolen sweaters, bed and table linen (and clothes) at great prices. Good ethnic restaurants.	Sofia Consulate Info Blvd. Dragan Tsankov, 28 Tel. 8-10 (35-92) 963-40-21 Mon-Fri 9am-noon Cost: $150 (5 days) If You Go 2 hour time difference 3 hour flight Flight: economy $300/business $850 Hotel: 3-star $85/5-star $160 Plus  Bulgarians are friendly and open. Even though relatively few Bulgarians speak English, the language is similar enough to Russian that you can make yourself understood if you speak Russian. For those on a budget, a youth hostel costs as little as $10 per night. Minus Prices for visa processing change almost hourly, and for no discernible reason. Young women should be prepared to burst into tears when told the rate that day is $350 and hope the staff takes pity. Tip While waiting for your visa to be processed, take a day trip to Burgas, a small town on the Black Sea coast ($23 each way). In Sofia, take official taxis. (Prices for gypsy cabs can fluctuate as much as the visa processing fees, and tears don’t work as well with the cabbies).
Prague Consulate Info Pod Kastany 1, Praha 6 - Bubenec Tel. 8-10 (42- 02) 333-74- 093 Mon, Wed, Fri 9am,-noon Cost: 7000 crone (about $270) - one week; 10,500 crone (about $400) – next day; 14, 000 crone (about $540) – same day If You Go 2 hour time difference 3 hour flight Flight: economy $310/business $960 Hotel: 3-star $110/5-star $240 Plus One veteran visa-getter rates this the friendliest and most competent Russian consulate in Europe. And Prague has it all: great music, restaurants, museums and shopping, all in a fairytale setting. Minus The consulate is a taxi ride (or long walk) from the metro. The city – and the visas – aren’t as cheap as they used to be. Tip Book one of the small hotels or pensions, which have very good rates off-season. Check out the jazz clubs and opera. Bring back beautiful garnet jewelry. Enjoy the beer!	Kiev Consulate Info ul. Kutuzova, 8 Tel. 8-10 (380-44) 296-45-04, 294-67-01 Mon-Fri 10am-1pm; Mon-Tues and Thur-Fri also 3pm-5pm Visa cost: $195 (10 days), $495 (same day) If You Go 1 hour time difference 14 hour overnight train 1.5 hour flight Train: second $90/first $120; Flight: economy $150/business $350 Hotel: 3-star $120/5-star $320 Plus Your Russian travel companion doesn’t need a visa to get into Ukraine. Minus Kiev is technically the capital of an independent country, but it sure feels a lot like Russia. Not the place to go if you need a break from Russian society. Westerners need a Ukrainian visa, and they’re not cheap. (The Ukrainian Embassy in Moscow is at 18 Leontyevsky pereulok, Metro Pushkinskaya, Tel. 229-6922, 229-1988. A tourist visa costs $100 if you get it done in five working days. Consulate open Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri 9:00–13:00 for submitting applications; Mon–Thurs 16:30–18:00 and Fri 16:00–17:00 for visa pick-up. Tip  If you go by train, make absolutely sure your visa gets stamped at the border crossing!
Vilnius Consulate Info  ul. Latviu 53 Tel. 8-10 (370) 72-33-76; 72-38-93 Mon, Tues, Thurs and Fri 8am- 10:30am. Visa cost: $ 240 (same day) If You Go 1 hour time difference 13 hour, 35 minute overnight train Train: second $115/first $220 2 hour flight Flight: economy $260/business $480 Hotel: 3-star $110/5-star $250 Plus Cheap option for same-day visa processing. Minus The Russian consulate in Vilnius is about an hour outside the city center, so if you don’t take a taxi, be prepared to first take a bus and then walk a ways. The Vilnius consulate is notorious for mixing things up; some visa veterans avoid this city like the plague. Tip Better to fly than to go by train. Trains traveling to Lithuania from Moscow go through the Belarus, which requires a transit visa. Not worth the hassle!	Istanbul Consulate Info Istiklal Caddesy, 443, Beyoglu Tel. 8-10 (90212) 292-51-01 Mon, Tues, Thur, Fri 8:30am-11:30am Visa cost: The basic price should be $200, but the Russian consulate has gone native: the only way to find out the exact price is to show up at the consulate with all the necessary documents. If You Go 1 hour time difference 3 hour flight Flight: economy $335/business $1035 Hotel: 3-star $55/5-star $330 Plus Enjoy great food and legendary shopping. Minus There are usually crowds at the embassy. Most foreigners (with the notable exceptions of Germans and the French) need a visa to enter Turkey, which can be purchased at the airport on arrival and costs $20. Required documents: passport that will be valid for more than 3 months after arrival. Tip Visit the Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. If the weather allows, take a cruise on the Bosphorus. Try traditional Ottoman cuisine.
Nicosia Consulate Info  Ag. Prokopiou street, Engomi Tel. 8-10 (357-2) 77-68-32 www.cyprus.mid.ru Mon, Tues, Wed and Fri 9am to 1pm Visa cost: $320 (same day) If You Go  1 hour time difference 3 hour flight Flight: economy $325/business $1038 Hotel: 3-star $170/5-star $440 Plus During the off-season, November to April, a trip to Cyprus is cheap (an eight-day, all-inclusive package for two at a 3-star beach resort in Limassol costs about $800). It cools off in the fall and winter, but they’ve got sun and surf year round. Minus The embassy often requests an original copy of the visa invitation, even if it is a one-month, single-entry tourist visa that most other consulates process from a copy. Tip Take a cruise to Lebanon, Syria, Egypt, Rhodes or Algeria while you’re in the neighborhood.

Special thanks to Alexei Filipenkov of Visa Delight, Vadim Rybakov of Liga Consultant visa service, Tony Young of Alpha Omega Travel, and Natalia Barzolevskaya of Avantix.ru for providing information and professional insights for this article.